My personal response to the new generation of fashion film.
Monday 7 May 2012
Tuesday 7 February 2012
Self VS Aspiration
Who am I? I am Fenella’s daughter. I am Freya’s sister. I am Alex’s friend. I am an owner. I am a learner. I am a companion. I am an over- achiever. I am compulsive. I am laid back. I am worried. I am private. I am modification. I am envious. I am an aesthetician. I have an aspiration.
The more we deny having any form of an aspirational aesthetic the more we find ourselves searching for one. I do it. You can’t not admit to it too. An aspirational aesthetic can be broken down into two parts, firstly the aspirational side, the desirability of success. This ‘success’ can come in many forms, financial success, material success, spiritual success and social success. It is this social success companies such as Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren submerge themselves into. As they uncover the lives of their ‘target audience’ in their lately released ‘At home with the Hilfiger’s’ autumn 2011 advertisement. The advertisement features a guided tour of a beautifully preened country estate and delivers a behind the scenes view of the artificially created family consisting of the seasons most eligible runway models. The film begins with the Latin phrase ‘casa nobilius maison – U.S.’ meaning ‘the noblest house’, a small way of hinting at their audience of the association with education by using the Latin language, a subject usually assumed to be taught in the most prestigious of privately funded establishments to begin their advert. As the film progresses, introducing each ‘family member’ to the camera a storyline begins to unfold, about Francis, Sam or Bernard and their history. This allows the viewer to either associate themselves with such characters or aspire to be one of them, equally producing a wide audience for Hilfiger’s products. The use of a wide age range also hints at the generational heritage of the brand.
Secondly, Ralph Lauren has undoubtedly succeeded in advertising the aesthetically enticing world of the upper class to the masses. Each of their sub lines, ranging from Polo to Rugby, targets an individual subculture of their audience. You can notice too through Lauren’s preppy, American dream inspired footage how the characterisations of several models aims to intrigue the teenage middle class sector in to aspiring to be among the generations whole ultimately don’t even want to buy from the brand as it has become of a lower class.
However, generational inspired brands such as these are not the only companies to pounce on the aesthetically inspired. Far from it. A marginally more individually inspired brand, Calvin Klein, use this method to target another culture audience through the use of film exploring the real lives of the models employed to entice its audience. Meanwhile, on the other end of the spectrum exists the subculture that covet exclusivity as their aesthetical aspiration while such products remain exclusive by virtue of their price tag. For example family owned French house Hermes does not rely on celebrity status to model their latest campaign but target the inherited wealthy of our society rather than the ‘get rich quick’ among us who admire the logo filled fabric. It is perhaps no surprise that products from Hermes increase in value with age unlike other one hit wonders.
The recent rise in the use of fashion film to advertise has provided a range of aesthetic aspirations to the wider public. The genre of fashion based film can be distinguished into two types, art and advertisement, with each often cross referencing each other. This rise began from the decline of magazine sales and the increase in the use of the internet, hence the rise in the fashion blogger, allowing them to influence what we buy as much as a fashion editor or celebrity. Fashion houses are increasingly paying attention to the power of the internet.
Fashion film was originally established in the 1930’s when Coco Chanel designed the costumes for Jean Cocteau’s film ‘Le Sag d’un Poete’, displaying one of the first recognised designer and film maker collaborations. This was later followed by a whole host of links between the two industries from Rodarte crafting the recent box office hit ‘Black Swan’s’ costumes to the timeless elegance of Breakfast at Tiffany’s styled by Givenchy in 1961. However most recently a whole new genre of collaboration has been developed due to the cross over between designer and director as Tom Ford took to writing and directing ‘A Single Man’ while providing the cast with a host of Tom Ford menswear.
In 2009 an exhibition at Somerset House named SHOWstudio enforced this fashion revolution by taking the idea of ‘moving fashion’ further, by celebrating nine years of the company forging the genre of fashion films and acknowledging their influence in the present day. Photographer Knight describes the progress as “moving away from illustration and photography and entering the world of the interactive”. Recently we have also seen the world of fashion film take over the new genre of music videos as a new vehicle for showcasing up and coming film making. A new wave of directors are more attracted to this genre due to the lack of time constraints from a song and the narrative freedom. Todd Cole and Zaiba Jabbar began their directing careers in music videos however moved quickly to creating successful fashion films. Much like when music video directing began, the genre is so open allowing any wild interpretations to be acceptable. Cole recently described his love for fashion film as an ability to create better narrative possibilities, be able to use music and sound to enhance the mood, create stronger and more complete characters as a three-dimensionally alternative to print. One of Cole’s most prestigious films was collaboration with Rodarte, following his many photographic collaborations. ‘A Space Odyssey’ was not necessarily inspired by the brands aesthetic but more a continuation of the type of film and photography the audience of the brand would like to see. This, despite being directed and produced as a piece of art, results in being an advertisement, enticing the Rodarte audience. Todd Cole later went on to collaborate even further with the fashion house producing ‘The Curve of Forgotten Things’ featuring Elle Fanning as the girl ‘existing in a story outside of time in a magical place that is unique to California’, in which each outfit transforms when she moves from room to room.
Another example of a highly influential film in the new movement was when Italian fashion giants enlisted experimental film maker, actor and author Kenneth Anger to create a short film that represents Missioni’s Autumn/Winter collection for 2010/11. Anger’s aesthetic is often described as fantastical, surreal and containing “elements of erotica, documentary and psychodrama” The short film he produced for the fashion house hints at glimpses of the family’s motifs and knits that define the brand while displaying a sophisticated aesthetic to the tune of Anger’s ethereal narrative. All members of the family are included in the production resembling tactile kaleidoscopic montage caught together using dreamy, pastel tones, defining the sophistication and imagination of the brands aesthetic.
As the use of fashion film began to filter down the ranks of underground fashion to the fashion giants such as Chanel and Lanvin it hit upon the high street market. A perfect place to allow the everyday shopper an aspiration linked to that of high fashion, meanwhile creating a wider audience accepting its blatant product placement. First, high street dominants Topshop enlisted the new genre to attract new customers. British trained menswear designer Shaun Samson launched his label earlier this year at London Fashion Week and teamed up with Fashion East and The Hidden Agency as part of their Man SS12 series to produce a short film displaying debut collection to be featured in the chains top UK stores. Directed by Liam Gleeson and set to a chilling soundtrack of The Big Pink covering Beyoncé’s ‘Sweet Dreams’ the video is an exploration into the life of early 90’s grunge and surfer life. Gleeson recreated the stereotype in an empty warehouse, including trickling water and harsh sunlight, in front of projections of the landscape and Samson’s Aztec inspired beach shorts. The Man SS12 collaboration also featured videos from Matthew Miller’s architecturally inspired collection and Martine Rose’s collection influenced by the culture of skateboarding, while each film displays a range of aesthetic aspirations.
Despite the constant flux between art and advertisement the fashion film genre continues to produce work on an interactive level. Each label has its own aspirational audience, a buyer that has aesthetic desires to become the person who wears that season’s jacket, who fits in to the society portrayed and who undoubtedly searches for their own subculture to aspire to be in. Call yourself a follower or declare to being self styled, but, ultimately, you’re always going to fit into an aspirational aesthetic.
Wednesday 11 January 2012
Monday 2 January 2012
House of Holland delves into the world of fashion film featuring friends/celebrities linked to the brand.
Designers branch out to directing - A Single Man, Tom Ford
A scene from Jean Cocteau's 1930 film Le Sang d'un Poete of which Coco Chanel designed the costumes, one of the first recognised designer and film maker collaborations.
KENNETH ANGER FOR MISSONI FW 10/11
A kaleidoscopic, and fantastical dream is what resulted when filmmaker, actor and author Kenneth Anger was enlisted to create a short film for Italian fashion house Missioni's Autumn/ Winter 2010/11 collection. The film hints at glimpses of the family's motifs and knits that define the brand while displaying a sophisticated aesthetic to the tune of Anger's narrative. All members of the family model the the collection in a range locations such as a basement to Rosita and Ottavio's garden.
Thursday 24 November 2011
Calvin Klein
Meanwhile Calvin Klein recently produced a series of similar advertisements following and describing a series of buyers
Tommy Hilfiger
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren are a perfect example of not just advertising a product but advertising a culture or society. Meanwhile their audience relates to the characters in such advertisements as they are the people they are charactorising. The settings the films are shot at are increasingly about the lives of their target market referencing wealth and education.
Thursday 3 November 2011
Monday 17 October 2011
Nowness.com
Nowness.com provide a range of fashion based short films which have given me a huge amount of inspiration to create my own short film. Particularly film "The Runaway" which focuses on a shadow effects behind a piece of fabric concentrating on lighting and movement. This I felt made a slight connection with Carravaggio's focus on lighting and tonal qualities throughout his paintings.
ASOS
In their latest campaigns ASOS focused on certain groups of young people who are often in their target audience around the world to film and investigate their lives and interests. For example skating groups in paris, creating a fast paced eye catching video.
French Connection "I am..."
French Connection use memorable, quirky videos to advertise a new item to their store. Most films include one camera angle for example the table tennis short film cropping the heads of the models to allow the eye to focus on the movement of the clothes themselves. This theme also runs through the "I Am The Jumper" removing the head from the film to allow the focus of the form of the jumper while incorporating funny clips related to the storyline of the short film.
Wednesday 12 October 2011
Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio
Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio was an Italian artist who travelled between Rome, Naples, Malta and Sicily between 1593 and 1610. His paintings use a very realistic view of the human state, both physical and emotional with and incredibly powerful and dramatic use of lighting to enhance the focus of the human form.
The clips above are taken from the film 'Caravaggio' from 1986 directed by Derek Jarman displays an unusual approach to an interpretation of Caravaggio's life and upbringing. However what intrigued me was how the film was shot using mainly dark background lighting but intense bright lighting in the foreground very much like Caravaggio himself's paintings.
Tuesday 4 October 2011
Miu Miu
The above Mui Mui advertisement uses intense bright lights and flashing imagery to display their bright colour blocking based collection in a fun environment.
"The Powder Room by Zoe Cassavetes is the first of "The Miu Miu Women's Tales", a series of short movies by international female filmmakers that explore their fantasies about the brand. Set in London's Claridge's Hotel, the short film explores the feminine rituals in the powder room." Cassavetes uses close ups of the clothing to display the collection in detail and to make it the focus of the film.
Todd Cole
Todd Cole is director and photographer from California. His hugely successful short film for fashion label Rodarte called Aanteni was voted one of the top ten fashion films of 2010 by W magazine as well as winning several other awards. The follow up film for Rodarte's first short advertisement was just as successful and feature hit actress Elle Fanning. Both films are now travelling globally to be exhibited in various international film festivals. The eery and tense atmosphere in both films entices the audience even in such a short production. Cole has also directed several music videos in a similar style including Kurt Vile's "baby's arms".
Portable.com
Sophomore in the above short film use a documentary style to convey the mood and intentions of their clothes by interviewing interesting and unusual characters in their clothing reaching out to the audience they want to achieve.
The label 'Dust' also uses a particular character to portray their target audience by creating an intense but weary atmosphere but by splitting the screen in to separate windows the film develops two aspects.
Proenza Schouler begin their short film using a stop frame animation which develops into a series of a short clips of a characters life. During the film the character talks eerily about her fears and loves of her life while wearing their latest collection.
Rachel Antonoff regenerates a scene from 80's hit tv programme Teen Witch where certain important aspects of the characters costumes are exchanged with their latest collection pieces.
Monday 19 September 2011
Gap
High street retailer Gap uses snappy, memorable films to advertise their latest collection or item. Shown on television screens around the world new and inventive methods of advertising encouraged hundred of other high street brands to delve into this world. Many of their films feature celebrities to encourage buyers in upbeat dances or routines to display the use of their new item.
Lanvin
Fashion house Lanvin uses fun and upbeat videos containing a repeatable dance routine. Using models to display their clothes as an alternative to the catwalk.
Here the Lanvin short film uses simple stop frame animation photographs to create a quirky almost shaken video to portray their clothing.
One of Lanvin's first short films used to advertise their latest collection also uses a series of stop frame animations in different scenes. Varying scenes are also shown at the same time to develop a contrast throughout the advert.
The above film made for Lanvin's collaboration with hight street brand H&M. The short animation went viral as soon as it was released due to its unusual but inspiring storyline and crafted using mixed media.
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